Mood:  a-ok

My camera was on the fritz these last couple of days. Not sure what happened, but it decided to heal itself! Here are pictures of the blanket in progress.

The black thread is there to show me which line I am supposed to be working on. I counted down 40 rows from the last finished line. As I start this project in the middle of the row, this helps keep me on track until I have established the row.

I

Each row consists of 2 rows of "weaving". Look at the top row compared to the row I am working on

 Diana

Mood:  rushed

I came home from Helena late Monday night and now head off to north of Calgary for Fibre Week at Olds College.  http://www.oldscollege.ca/programs/ContinuingEducation/Applied_Arts/fibreweek/index.htm

The spinning and weaving community in Alberta is fantastic.  I taught there last year in Red Deer at the ANWG conference.  I'm very happy to go back and teach 4 spinning classes.  I'm teaching Spin Your Own Stripes; Color & Fibre Blending, Spinning for Lace; and Not Your Usual Fibre. 

Then after getting done teaching, I'm going to take a lace knitting class from Lucy Neatby.  http://www.tradewindknits.com/     I'm thrilled about that.

 When I get a second I'll tell you about MAWS and Fibre Week.  Linda

Mood:  happy

My daughter is expecting my 3^rd grandchild in Oct - needless to say we all are very excited! It is supposed to be a girl, so I am thrilled that I will have 3 grand daughters! So now reality hits. I started a tradition of Swedish Weaving Blessing Blankets. Beth and Sarah have one, now for another.

For those not familiar with Swedish Weave, it a very easy crafting technique. You can buy Monks Cloth just about any where and in an assortment of colors. I like using the neutral color, which is more of an eggshell than an actual white. Good to hide baby "stuff."

When working with Monks Cloth, I first sew up the raw sides on my sewing machine. If you don’t the blanket or cloth actually starts to unravel and those loose, woven threads start to unweave themselves and become knotted.  If left to it's own devices, it would become a big ball of tangled string

After it is washed, it looks like this:

As you can see the strands or floats are very close together. It is in the floats that you place your yarn. First though, I need to find the middle of the material as my design is worked from the middle out. I start by folding the material in fourths, then place a safety pin where the middle is:

I then unfold it and measure again, just to be sure I have marked the middle float on the material:

Diana

Mood:  happy

I've finished mordanting more than 11,000 yards to take to MAWS for my natural dyeing class.  YEAH.  Not as bad as I imagined, but I'm glad to be done.  I used tin for about 2/3 of the skeins and alum for the rest.  The alums are out drying on my funky clothes line I have near my outside dye pots. 

DH was mowing the lawn today and I asked for some of the clippings and have them cooking away to see what colors I get.  I'm not sure I'll blog until I'm back from MAWS.  By the time I get my pickup loaded up with everything for my classes--Novice Spinning, Spin Your Own Stripes, Punch Needle Embroidery and Natural Dyeing, I'll be in a faint.  Fortunately dh is staying home and so don't have to deal with all the gardening and pet issues when we are leaving together.  Really looking forward to MAWS.  I haven't taught at MAWS in a long time and it is surprising how many of my students I know from before.    Linda

Mood:  rushed

I'm busy mordanting skeins for my upcoming workshops in Helena at MAWS.  I love teaching.  It stimulates me, forces me to get things done, and I learn more than my students.  Plus I get a lot of seeing lightbulbs go on in students head--very fun.  But I DO NOT LIKE WORKING SO HARD TO GET ALL THE KITS READY.  Anyway.

Mordanting wool, silk, and other protein fibers.  There are five common chemicals used for mordanting protein fibers:  alum, iron, chrome, copper, and tin. Alum sulfate is the most common and least toxic. Many people also mordant with iron, a non-toxic mordant, but it is very hard on the wool. I do not use iron as a mordant but do brief afterbaths to change the color of some goods. I do not use chrome although many natural dyers do due to the environmental and health concerns. Carol Lee gives a quite good explanation of the change in chemical properties of chrome and how they are safer than many perceive.  I have a lot more to explore before I need chrome, so I just play it safe.  I use tin, however, which is not near as risky and creates very bright colors. I have also only used copper as an after bath.

How much mordant is the right amount.  There are two schools of thought on how much mordant is sufficient. The more mordant you use the harsher feel to the wool.  I follow the Trudy van Stralen school of mordanting which subscribes to less mordant.  Many others use the Carol Lee/Carol Leigh formulas which are more traditional.

                             Van Stralen—                                                  Lee/Leigh

Alum                     Alum 10% WOG--2.5 Tbsp per #                    Alum 4 Tbsp per #

                             Tartaric acid 5% WOG 1 Tbsp per #                Tartaric acid 1 Tbsp per #

Tin                        Tin 0.5 %WOG                                                Tin ½ tsp per #

                             Tartaric acid 5% WOG 1 Tbsp per #                Tartaric Acid 1 tsp per #

Iron                       Uses as afterbath only                                       Iron 1 tsp per #

Dissolve the mordant in very hot water and add. Dissolve the tartaric acid) in very hot water and add.

3.  Add wet fiber Bring fiber up to 175 degrees for silk and 200 degrees for wool. Cook for 1 hour. Cool for one hour or overnight (not necessary if cook more than 1 hour). Rinse fiber in water.  The rinse water should be the same temperature as the fabric or yarn to avoid felting. So if goods are still hot you need hot rinse water. Avoid agitation at all stages to prevent felting.

Back to tracing punch needle patterns for kits  Linda

Mood:  a-ok

This weekend, I went to a one day workshop, but not about all my usual fiber pursuits.  I'm active in our local museum, the Yellowstone Art Museum http://yellowstone.artmuseum.org/  Recently the museum started having a monthly adult education class.  This weekend it was a class called Freehand Sketching by local university professor, Neil Jussila.  It just seemed too good an opportunity to miss.  Now you will say, I didn't know that you knew how to draw?  Well that is the catch, I don't.  A few years ago I took a design workshop and for part of the day, we had to draw--a major stretch for me who had only tried a couple of times in grade and high school and didn't get any where. 

So for a few weeks I drew regularly.  It is surprising, it is really practice.  I got distracted by fiber things and I'm certainly no drawer yet, but everyone can recognize what I'm drawing.  Now this class was for more advanced students, but I sure learned a lot.  I would draw a lot more, if I wasn't so busy spinning, knitting, etc. etc.  But I'm still very interested in keeping working at it.  Linda

Mordanting Cotton First we’ll deal with mordanting cotton because the options are limited. Usually cotton is mordanted with alum. Sometimes iron is used to create darker, sadder colors. Care has to be taken with iron since too much can cause the fiber to deteriorate.  Most dyers feel both alum and iron are safe mordants—but like any powder to do with dyeing you do not want to inhale it, injest it,  or get it on your skin. Painting stores have relatively cheap air filter masks used by house painters. Sometimes I just use a medical dust mask, but I really like the air filter one better. 

There are two methods for mordanting cotton: (1)the alum acetate method and (2)the alum sulfate (normal dyers alum) and tannic acid method. Alum acetate is a more expensive alum that is only available from speciality suppliers. I prefer it to the alum tannic acid method which is cheaper but multiple step and takes significantly longer. For alum acetate, use 5% WOG or 4 Tablespoons for 1 pound. Use 1/3 cup for 1.5 pound. Dissolve alum acetate in boiling water. Hold at 100 degrees for at least one hour and longer will not hurt it. Drain water (do not rinse). Either keep goods in plastic if going to dye right away or dry and use it later. If dry, soak in water before dyeing.

Only a portion of the alum will be soaked up by the goods. If you want to mordant more goods, just put in ½ as much mordant. After 2-3 uses, go back to the full amount of mordant and start again but you can continue to use the same water.

Another option is a 3 step mordanting process using potassium alum sulfate (common dyers alum) and tannic acid. To do this mix ½ cup alum sulfate in 4 gallons of hot water in a plastic bucket. Make a tannic acid solution by dissolving 2 tablespoons in 4 gallons of hot water and put in a separate bucket. Put scoured wet cotton fabric or yarn in the alum sulfate mixture for 12-24 hours, then rinse. Then put fabric in tannic acid solution for 12-24 hours. Rinse again. Put back in alum solution for 12-24 hours. You can reuse these alum and tannic acid mixtures several times. Sumac is a source of tannic acid.

I've had lots of fun teaching quilters to natural dye. Quilting is something I wish I had the time for but that yarn and fleece calls me too much.  The fabric above or some like it, is headed to a patchwork lining on my natural colored circular sampler bag.  Now if I can just figure out what sort of interfacing to apply and how to make a bag lining, I'll be set.  I sure wish I'd paid more attention when Mom tried to teach me to sew.  Linda

Mood:  rushed

Mordanting is probably the most intimidating part of natural dyeing and also the most controversial. Mordanting is necessary for most local plants to provide vibrant colors and more importantly to keep the colors from fading.  There are two methods of mordanting—premordanting and dyeing while mordanting. The one I use almost exclusively is to premordant the goods. You can mordant weeks in advance and then dye when the dyestuffs are available. Natural dyeing is quite a long process as is and adding mordanting the same day is generally a bad idea. You can also add the mordant directly to the dye bath, but since I dye many times in the same dyebath it is very hard to control the amount of mordant that way.  I don't premordanting fiber for black walnut, cutch and some other woods because of the tannins.  I also don't premordant for indigo, but most of my indigo dyeing is overdyeing so I have mordanted the yarn.  I finished winding most of the skeins last night so now I have to check my supply list to make sure I have enough natural dyes for my upcoming class in Helena.  Dyeing to get into the dyepot, but I'm sticking with business.  Linda

Mood:  a-ok

Natural dyeing is a three step process:  scouring, mordanting, and dyeing. Scouring of yarn or fabric prior to dyeing is very important stage.  I wash my wool yarns and silk, fleece, and fabric just as I normally wood any wool item—hot water, Dawn detergent or Synthrapol, using no agitation.

Cellulose fibers such as cotton and linen yarn and fabric takes more preparation and in general are a little harder to get as vibrant as color. I have had great luck dyeing cotton fabric. Cellulose goods require more intense scouring. To scour cotton, weigh your goods (WOG). I scour 1.5 pounds (4 yards of fabric) in my canning kettle. Then add enough warm water to enamel or stainless steel dye kettle to cover goods well. Add 2 tablespoons Synthrapol per pound of fabric (3tablespoons for 1.5 pound).  Dissolve 2% WOG of soda ash in boiling water and add to bath (4 teaspoons for 1.5 pounds). The soda ash improves the washing ability on cotton and is not a mordant. Slowly heat up the water to simmer for 60 minutes stirring pot slowly every few minutes. Longer is better than shorter. After scouring the goods, I either dry it or more likely go directly on to mordanting because it needs to be wet before putting into the mordant bath. 

Mood:  a-ok

I love to dye with the fruit wood, leaves, and twigs.  Most of these don't need mordant because the tannins in the bark serve as a mordant.  These yarns were dyed in June 2006 from leaves, twigs, and immature fruit.  I had one of those small plastic grocery bags full and got some wonderful colors.  This was quite a lot of color from this amount of plant material.  I have about 16 ounces here.  The most reddish ones were the first dye bath and were on unmordanted fiber. This probably was because the amount of dye in the water was the most.     I want to experiment some more this year with this dye although I have gotten quite lovely colors last year from plum leaves and twigs.   What I need is a nearby friend with a big crab apple tree in their yard.  My crab apple tree is just a baby so I can't just pull off a lot of leaves and bark there yet.--

I'm making some progress in winding skeins in the evening for my upcoming classes.  I'll be really, really glad when I'm done so I can do something more fun.  All's well in beautiful Montana.  Linda